James Kelly created an atmospheric show full of drama and individuality. Backstage the excitement built as the looks were created. Natural influences were immediately apparent as moss purposefully placed on most items varying from immaculately white clothing and heavy military boots, creating texture and depth of colour in a variety of greens. This juxtaposed the clinical feel of the runway as the room was covered in plastic sheeting and bandages were bound round feet, arms and waist.
The military theme was continued beyond the boots and bandages through to oversized utility style pockets and large collared sleeveless trench coats I’m earthy khakis. Mud, moss and feathers contributed to grungy undertones, which were consistent throughout different aspects of the show.
The sound track contributed heavily to the atmosphere as layers of ambiguous noises resembling untuned radios, chainsaws and distant rumbles started slowly gradually increasing in speed. The models walked with a slow pace, allowing full appreciation of each look in the show, some were constricted by sheer body socks, encasing their upper torso and arms.
Daniele De Angelis lead the hair team working on the description James gave them of a girl waking up on a beach, with wild and wet hair. Volume was created narrowly down one side creating natural texture framing the face with front hanging hair.
Beth Margetts brought a team of students from the London Make-up School who were assisting Lan Nguyen-Grealis and using Body Shop products. The team helped create the effective but intentionally dishevelled look, a mix between eye shadow and lipstick were used to create a pinkish effect round the eyes. They aimed to create “a high end but lived in luxe look” and succeeded, the make-up complimented the mood perfectly.
Words by: April Edgar
Photos: Sarah Brown