Paul Costello – London Fashion Week – AW17

Paul Costelloe’s dominant collection emerged, commanding our attention as “Watchtower” by Devlin blared out from the speakers. Models trudged down the stairs in chunky, military style boots wearing oversized deconstructed shirts with exaggerated ruffles to show a range of silhouettes. Costelloe displayed a contemporary, military image with classic tailored jackets with waistlines and regal large cuffs. The traditional autumnal palette of burgundy, khaki and burnt orange made the collection feel quintessentially British as the designer took inspiration from the Tudor period. The collection also touched on female empowerment as a strong metallic trouser featured on the runway behind a slinky mesh gown showing the modern woman’s diversity. The designer was experimental with textures as he created skin tight leggings in jewel tones made from latex, and voluminous sleeves on dresses designed in silk jacquard. In addition, we saw oversized coats featuring check pattern and Portland orange with flute sleeves created from Irish tweed. Models sported slicked back hair and a soft pink lip. A strong, deep red stripe across the eye was the focus of the face, another way to show the versatility of the collection and colour palette. The modern rocky, military girl image combined with the elegant Tudor inspiration, made for a fresh and innovative collection

Words by Paige Dempster

Images by Paolo Steve