Inspired by the photography of Michal Chelbin, Harry Xu explored the power of androgyny, tailoring and detailing within his Autumn/Winter 17 collection for this season’s London Fashion Week. Working with both embellishment and line, two incredibly juxtaposing elements, X u created a collection that discussed the emotions and psychological changes felt by convicts as they experience the real world for the very first time from the depths of imprisonment– felt by the dazzling snow drops and intricate beading attached to jacket sleeves and cuffs, contrasting against stern utilitarian pocketing, paneling and skilful suiting, Xu’s collection was one of intelligent design, a collection that considered both exterior attraction to the garments, but also interior skill within the construction of the collection pieces. In tones of navy, black, olive green, white, ultramarine and pink, a tone of masculinity was also implied through the choice of male models and a singular female model – a true alliteration of the subject matter and its emotional depth and power. In term of collection pieces, coats remained oversized and consuming, whilst trousers complimented the stern abstract line detailing by offering themselves in the form of slouchy and comfortable shaping – shirting and tailoring remained of a classic silhouette, accessorized with twisted rope around the body, to further suggest the idea of a previous life of captivity. For this very first season since his graduation show, it is clear Harry Xu can create pieces that are sustainable within a design aesthetic – pieces that are both intelligently designing yet classically created, proving Xu to be one to watch in terms of his future design development journey.
words by Jasmine Banbury
Images by Paolo Steve
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