This season London continued to prove why it’s the capital of contemporary fashion. However a common theme this season came from functionality and tradition, and how those two attributes continued to attract the mind of a modern London man. We look back on our three favourite shows this AW16 and why each one captivated us in a different way.
Barbour returned this season with a collection high on tradition. The quintessentially British brand went back to its roots for this collection with tartan lining and hit wax jackets making a return. Barbour do heritage unlike any other brand, for this collection they were inspired by the Beacon Lighthouse by the River Tyne, which was around since 1882.
The result they produced was an array of practical but very stylish looks in an earthy tone palette and slim silhouettes. Jackets came in mustard, grey, navy, khaki and black. These were layered over sweatshirts, knitted jumpers, checked shirts and completed with a variety of chinos. The usual Wellington boot was transformed into a more contemporary brogue and a Chelsea boot style shoe.
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For AW16 Belstaff transported us to the top of some arctic mountains. This autumn/winter collection was all about functionality and protection. With ecru puffer jackets dominating the collection there was also a range of shearling jackets with detachable aspects, like collars. Hoods were fur lined and the signature Belstaff biker leather jackets were also present.
The collection was inspired by freedom and adventure and how one must be prepared for whatever comes our way. This was displayed by the new technologies Belstaff used to produce a collection that made sure it did just that. Jackets were made water repellent with the use of wax cotton; extra pockets were also added to jackets for utility and clever layering allowed for comfort and no overheating. Lightweight cashmere turtlenecks and jumpers were layered under jackets and coats paired with the well-known Belstaff leather trousers. Snow boots and a new lace-up boot finished off the looks, making the models ready to head north.
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BAARTMANS AND SIEGEL AW16
The Dutch/English design duo Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel presented us with an American inspired collection titled ‘Harlem 76’. Being known as the ‘Modern Traditionalists’ this collection was no different. With what was a collection reminiscent of a merge between films ‘American Hustle’ and ‘Pulp Fiction’ it did not fail to attract the modern contemporary eye.
A colour palette so on trend and timeless both male and female models stood around the BFC showspace showcasing a variety of jackets and coats. The classic camel coats came in four different styles, a classic one, two with detachable elements; a fur collar and a fur shawl, and a hooded duffel version. If you didn’t want a camel coat before you definitely did after that presentation. The oversized fur coat was present and the very on trend bomber jacket also made an appearance.
It wasn’t just the outwear that was so attractive about the collection, the clever styling and use of layering added sex appeal to the collection and to the atmosphere. Bomber jackets were layered over a double breasted suit and a thin pin stripe cropped jacket was layered over a long-line fur waistcoat and. The detail on every piece was so aesthetically pleasing. Everything was thought of; from the leopard print fur lining to the tied waists and checked print shirts. This wasn’t all to add to the cool gangster vibe, models’ looks were also completed with oversized sunglasses.
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Words by Daniela Suarez
Pictures by Claudia Rocha